DIY Girls Christmas Dress
How to make a DIY Girls Christmas Dress. I have been wanting to make my daughter a special holiday dress for awhile now and this year I finally got to doing it. Plus, I had leftover sequin fabric from making my DIY Minnie Mouse Ears that I wanted to incorporate into my daughter’s Christmas dress. My daughter can be hard to shop for sometimes, and is picky when it comes to things like whether the waistband goes over her waist or her hips (she prefers closer to her hips) and stretchy fabric is easier for her to wear then a non-stretchy dress with a zipper, so I knew this would be the perfect project. The sequin fabric was already stretchy so I chose knit fabric for the lining. I used the “burrito method” for this dress because of the stretchy fabric I used, I did not need an enclosure. I used a circle skirt method for the skirt part of the dress using satin with tulle over the top. The interesting part about sewing this dress was that it was harder than I expected to find a tutorial online for anything like this. It seems like a basic dress that I see selling in many children’s clothing store, but for some reason when I searched for girl’s holiday dresses, or fancy dresses, I’d be shown tutorials using either only woven fabric or only non-woven fabric or dresses with tulle under the skirt but not over like I wanted. The hardest part to find for me was how to attach an elastic waistband on the inside of the dress when attaching a stretchy fabric to a non-stretchy fabric. That was one of the reasons I really thought it would be important to make this tutorial, so hopefully it will help someone else so they don’t have to spend more time researching how to make it then actually making it!
This dress does require some intermediate sewing skills. I would not say I am a pro at sewing but I have learned a lot along the way, whether that involved learning from DIY blogs or, sadly, from my own *many* mistakes. So, without further ado, here is my tutorial on how to sew a girls Christmas dress.
How to make a girls chriSTMAS DRESS
What you will need:
- Your choice of fabric for the bodice (I used this here)
- Lining for the bodice (I used knit fabric)
- Fabric for the skirt (I used satin fabric from Joann’s)
- Matching tulle fabric from the bolt
- Sewing machine
- Matching thread
- Scissors
- Iron
- Cutting mat and rotary cutter
- 1/4″ elastic band
- Bling on a roll for the bow (Amazon or Dollar Tree)
The Bodice
Step 1:
If you have a pattern, great! If not, like me,find a dress that still fits that has a bodice and skirt style and trace around it onto tissue paper or newspaper. Fold the tissue paper or newspaper in half and place the bodice you’re tracing as close to the middle as you can (I usually go by where the tag is). Leave yourself at least a half-inch or more for seam allowance. My daughter wanted the waist closer to her hips so I made my bodice longer, so make adjustments depending on your preference. Do the same thing for the back bodice. Be careful while tracing over the neckline, the front will be lower in the front than in the back. I actually made a mistake at first and the neckline was sagging because I made the slope of the neck too big at the front neckline. Don’t make my same mistake! It is a pain rip out the stitches and fix. Especially after you already sewed the whole bodice piece before trying it on your daughter, like me…
Step 2:
Pin your pattern onto your lining fabric by folding your lining fabric in half and putting your pattern on the fold. If you have a cutting mat and rotary cutter, cut your fabric pieces out. If using scissors, cut with fabric as flat as possible on the floor. It is especially important to not stretch the fabric while cutting if using stretchy fabric like mine. Do the same with the back bodice pattern.
Step 3:
Repeat step 2 with your outer fabric, for me that is my sequin fabric.
Step 4:
Now you should have 2 lining bodice pieces and 2 outer bodice pieces. Line the lining pieces at the shoulders, right sides together, and sew the front shoulders to the back shoulders. Do the same with the outer shell (sequin fabric) pieces. Iron at the shoulder seams so they lay flat.
*Note- If you are using a stretchy fabric like me (knit) use a narrow zigzag stitch so the fabric doesn’t curl at the edges. I used setting number 3 on my machine which looks like this.
Step 5:
Lay out your lining bodice piece and outer shell bodice piece flat and line them up together, right sides facing. You are going to sew around the neck curves. Clip and/or make Vs in the seam of the neckline then serge (or finish the seam with a zigzag stitch) the neck curve before moving on to the next step so you can top stitch. Do not sew the arm curves yet.
*Note: Make sure your neck lays flat! Remember in step 1 how I said the neck was sagging once I sewed the whole bodice and tried it on my daughter? Well, I wish I knew before that if the neck does not lay flat when it is laid down that it would sag. Fix the slope of your neckline at this point so you don’t have to take out stitches later if it isn’t laying flat. To do that I had to lay the dress I originally traced by it and follow that slope better.
Step 6:
Now you are going to top stitch the seams down so they lay flat. Turn the bodice right side out, lay the lining and outer shell (the sequin fabric) at the neck curve flat, and top stitch over the seam around the neck curve on the lining side of the garment so no one can see the stitches. Stitch close to the seam without stitching on the front bodice fabric. Then press to flatten the seam.
Step 7:
Since I used stretchy sequin fabric and therefore stretchy lining fabric, I did not need an enclosure. So for this step I used the “burrito method”. I tried to take as good of pictures as I could for this step, but if there is still any confusion, just search the “burrito method” on Youtube, Google, Pinterest etc… To start, lay your bodice out flat right side up.
Your are pretty much going to sandwich the left side of the bodice in between the right side. Take the arm curve on the right side of the outer shell (sequin fabric) and bring it over the left side of the bodice at the left arm curve. You may have to roll the left side to fit it inside the right side.
Now with the right side lining at the arm curve, bring it under the bodice to the left side arm curve so the right side lining is meeting the right side outer shell with all of the left side arm curve wrapped inside, like a burrito! Make sure there is no part of the left side arm curve in the seam of the right side arm curve outer shell and lining and make sure they are matched up with right sides together. Pin the arm curve up, again being careful that no fabric of the left side gets sewed with it! You are going to sew the arm curve where the black lines are.
Step 7:
Sew, make clips in the seam allowance since it is another curved area, press, and top stitch the seam on the lining side like you did with the neck curve,. It is a little hard to top stitch the arm curves but do as much as you can.
Step 8:
Repeat the”burrito method” on the left side. Roll up the right (now finished) side inside the left side arm curves right sides together. Pin, sew, clip seam, serge (or zigzag), top stitch, and press.
Step 9:
Now that both straps are finished, it is time to sew up the sides of your bodice. Lay the bodice down flat and grab the outer shell (the sequin fabric) of the front of the bodices’ side seam to match it to the side seam of the outer shell fabric from the back side of the bodice, right sides together as shown. 
On that same side (I am doing the right side) match up the front bodice side seam lining to the back bodice side seam lining to each other. You will be sewing one long line down the side seams, front sequin fabric to back sequin fabric and front lining fabric to back lining fabric
It should look like this, on one long line. Pin and sew down the black lines. Do the same with the left side seams. Serge or zigzag the seams and press.
Turn the bodice right side out and you have a finished bodice! Try it on your daughter, or whoever you are making it at this point. Mine was a little to big for my daughter because of the stretch so at this point it was easy to just take in both the side seams about an inch each and it fit much better. Now your ready to make the skirt part of your dress. 
The Skirt
Step 1:
I decided to make a circle skirt for this dress. I am using red satin fabric with 3 layers of tulle over the top. You will need a ruler, pencil, and poster board, cardboard, or something big enough for your pattern for this step.There are tons of circle skirt tutorials out there, it really doesn’t matter which one you use, they all turn out the same in my experience. So the first thing you need to do is a little math to make the pattern for your skirt. But don’t worry, the equation is simple! There are even many circle skirt calculators out there to do the work for you! Because I didn’t have a lot of poster board at the moment, I decided to make a quarter circle skirt pattern. This is the equation I used: (waist length + 2) / (6.28). For example, let’s say the waist measurement was 25″, my equation would be (25+2) / 6.28 = 4.299. So pretty much 4 1/3 is the waist measurement. Now, mark it out on your poster board. I started on the top left corner of my poster board, with the shorter side on on top so it leaves the longer side for the length of my pattern. With a ruler, measure down from the corner to your number down and mark it. So if it was 4.299 inches, measure 4 1/3 down. Keeping one part of the ruler at the corner, move the in a circular direction making a mark at your number every inch or so till you get to the edge of the poster board. Then connect the dots, you should have a quarter of a circle shape, and cut on the line you made. I hope my pictures help make sense of that.
Step 2:
Decide how long you would like your skirt to be, make sure to take into account where the skirt is going to start on the dress. I measured my daughters body and decided 12 inches from where the bodice would end would be a good length. Starting from the quarter circle you just cut out, take your ruler and measure 12 inches down and mark it every inch or so just like you did on step 1. Only this time instead of keeping on end of the ruler at the corner, you are going to move the whole ruler around the waist markings. Connect the dots and cut and you have your pattern.
Step 3:
Fold your skirt fabric in half, then in half again. Place your pattern on top with the folded part of your fabric going along the top and left hand side like so. If you are using a slippery fabric like satin like I am, take the extra time to pin a lot. I know it takes a lot of time but better than messing up and starting over, right? Then cut your pattern out. I find a rotary cutter with a ruler works best for me so I can keep it flat, but scissors will work as long as it is pinned well. Make sure to add a 1/2″ seam allowance. When you unfold it you will have a full circle with a hole in the middle that looks like a doughnut.
*Note: If you want a little more ruffle to your skirt, cut the waist a little bigger because it will be attached to elastic later.
Step 4:
Next it is time to hem. Since I am using satin, I decided to go with a rolled hem. Fold the bottom edge 1/4″ and press, then fold 1/4″ again and press again so you have 2 folds. 
Step 5:
If you have a rolled hem foot, it makes this next step a little easier. I have heard that you can also achieve a rolled hem on a serger but I have never tried that before so I stuck to my rolled hem foot. If you do not have either of those options, sew the first folded hem you ironed, stitching close tot the edge, then fold again on the second fold you ironed and sew again. For instructions on a rolled hem foot, a video may be easier to understand but I will do the best I can. 
Place your hem under the rolled hem foot, unfolded, and make a 3 or 4 stitches, put the needle down in the fabric.
Lift the pressure foot and pull the edge of the fabric that is in front of the foot into the rolled part of the foot like this
Pull it over more till all the fabric is in the rolled part of the foot and place the foot back down.
Start sewing again and the rolled hem foot will roll the fabric as you sew. The folds you ironed help the fabric go into place. Hold the fabric in front of the foot down with your finger to help keep the fabric rolled.
Admire your professionally looked hem!
Step 6:
If you are adding tulle like I did, decide how many layers of tulle you want. I decided on 3 layers. Use the same circle skirt pattern and cute out your tulle pieces cutting it about an inch or two longer than the satin skirt but make sure the waist is cut the same. Line the layers on tulle (carefully) on top of your base skirt and pin at the waist. The tulle dows not need to be hemmed because it does not fray.
Step 7:
Sew all your layers together at the waist with a basting stitch. If you are planning on using an elastic waistband like me, do not ruffle the skirt at this point, this is simply just to keep the layers together.
Step 8:
Attaching the satin waistband with a stretchy waist is where I had the hardest time finding tutorials or information about. So, after reading many different tutorials this is what I came up with. I measured the bottom of the front bodice piece from left side seam to right. I cut out a rectangle piece of the same satin fabric I used for the skirt with that length and 6 inches wide because once I fold it, it will be 3 inches wide. I added 1/2″ seam allowance to the length and width. You could think of it like this: (waist measurement / 2) +1″ for the length. For the width: (preferred width * 2) + 1″. So if the waist is 25″ and you want the satin waistband 3″ wide, your rectangle would be 13″ long by 7″ wide. I used interfacing for the waistband. You could use it on the full rectangle but I only used it for the half that will be on the outside. Fold your rectangle in half width wise, and sew the 2 short ends. Serge or zigzag stitch to finish the edges and turn right side out.
Step 9:
Sew the satin waistband to the bodice at the side seams making sure to line up the raw edges of the satin waistband to the raw edges of the bodice on the bottom. Use matching thread and “stitch in the ditch” meaning stitch in the seam on both sides. I promise you can not even tell it wasn’t sewn in with the seam! 
Step 10:
We are almost done! Time to add the elastic. Measure your 1/4″ elastic to the waist measurement. Fold in half and sew the 2 ends together with about 1/2″ seam allowance. 
Flatten out the elastic and with the 2 ends of seam allowance you will fold them each out flat and sew them down so you have a flat seam.
Step 11:
Pin the elastic to the bottom raw edge of the bodice on the inside. Stretch as you go. Sew the elastic on the bottom of the bodice making sure to stretch as you sew.. The stretchy fabric of the bodice will allow you to stretch the elastic as much as you need to. 
Step 12:
Sew the bodice to the circle skirt. Turn your skirt inside out and pin the waist of your skirt to your bodice which will be right side out so right sides are together. Sew it all together stretching the elastic as you sew the skirt onto the bodice.
The reason I have more rows of stitching is because I wasn’t going to add elastic at first but later changed my mind.
The Bow
Step 1:
The bow is optional but it definitely brings out the dress. To make the bow I used the same satin fabric I used for the skirt and waistband. Start by making a rectangle. Mine was 10″ x 17″. I did not have enough interfacing left for the bow so I used some leftover organza and cut it out to the same shape and place it on the wrong side of the fabric.
Step 2:
Fold the rectangle long wise.
Step 3:
Pin and sew the long edges together then serge or zigzag to finish.
Step 4:
It should now look like a tube shape. Turn the tube right side out.
Step 5:
Iron out the tube with the back seam in the middle of the tube.
Step 6:
Fold in half width wise. I did this part wrong but the seam should be on the outside at this part when you fold, luckily no one sees the back of the bow!
Step 7:
Sew the short raw ends together.
Step 8:
Flip right side out.
Step 9:
Make sure the horizontal seam is on the inside and the vertical seam is in back and you should have a rectangle. You are going to do an accordion fold to make the bow shape. You will need to hand sew the shape in place so have a threaded needle ready with a double knot at the end. Start by pinching the middle on the front side of the bow.
Then accordion fold out above and below the middle pinch…
Accordion fold again…
And one more time. It is your choice how many folds you do, just make sure the top and bottom edges are facing the back when you are done.
Step 10:
Hopefully you got your needle and thread ready before you made the bow shape. Starting from either the top or bottom of the bow, put your needle through the middle of your bow where you made your accordion folds.
Step 11:
Wrap your thread around the middle of the bow a few times, tightly. Put your needle through the middle again to secure and tie a knot.
Step 12:
Get your bling on a roll out, or center of your choice and hot glue on the center of your bow. Then sew the finished bow to the center of the waistband of your dress. I sewed it all the way through both the waistband and your dress to help keep the waistband attached to the dress, since I only sewed the bottom and sides of the waistband on the dress.
You could easily stop here and would have a beautiful dress, but I wanted to add one more thing to give it a little something extra. A satin rosette.
The Satin Rose
Step 1: I used the same satin I used for the skirt, waistband, and bow of the dress to make the rose. I watched a video I found on Youtube for making this beautiful satin rose here, so it may be more helpful to some to watch that, but I did my explaining it with pictures. Cut a strip out that is 18″ long and 4″ wide. You will also need to make diagonal cuts on each end starting from the bottom left corner to 4″ to the right on the top. Do the same on the other end starting at the top right corner to 4″ to the left on bottom to make this shape.
Step 2:
Lay your piece out and pull the right side so that the bottom lines up with the top, forming almost a triangle like so.
Step 3:
You will need to sew by hand so thread a needle and tie a knot at the end. Start stitching at the tip of the triangle shape with a basic basting stitch. I started my first stitch inside the tip so the knot wouldn’t show. Continue sewing the raw edges of the triangle shape.
Step 4:
When you get to the bottom of the triangle shape, pull the raw edge of the bottom fabric and match it up with the top raw edge and continue sewing matching up the raw edges as you go. You will see your shape starting to twist as you sew, that is what you want.
Step 5:
When you get to the end, pull your strings to ruffle it just a little bit like the picture above. Do not cut your thread yet yet. On the end that does not have the thread sticking out, start rolling at the very tip keeping the raw edges at the bottom as you roll. Keep rolling till you get to the end. This will form your rose shape.
Step 6:
Holding the bottom tight as to make sure it doesn’t come loose, stitch through the bottom of the rose to secure and tie knot. Do not cut thread yet.
Step 7:
Sew it onto the strap of the dress. If you didn’t cut your thread yet, you can use that to sew it onto the strap. Make several stitches to make it really secure.
And……. Done! Yes, it is a longer project to add all the extras, but the details make it special. Now you have a beautiful holiday dress! Perfect for Christmas parties, religious activities, family get together’s, etc…. Or you can use it for any other occasion just by using different colored fabrics! It really turns out beautiful, has the stretch so no need for enclosures, while still being able to use gorgeous fabrics together, woven and non-woven. Hope this tutorial helps you get the information you need in one place when sewing stretchy fabrics to non-stretchy fabrics with an elastic waistband, unlike me who spent many hours just researching. Happy crafting!
